Welsh climbers prepare to conquer unclimbed Arctic peak

Mar 11 2010 by Hywel Trewyn, North Wales Weekly News

Welsh climbers prepare to conquer unclimbed Arctic peak

THREE Welsh climbers are preparing to scale a previously unconquered mile-high wall on the Arctic’s remote Baffin Island.

The three – Stuart McAleese, 34, an instructor at Plas y Brenin mountaineering centre at Capel Curig, Mike Turner, 43, from Llanberis, and Mark Thomas, 35, from Cardigan – specialise in climbing sheer rock faces.

And they don’t come bigger than the Sail peaks in Stewart Valley, Baffin Island.

Because of the wall’s size, it will take the friends around 20 days to climb up the granite Sails cliff face – so-called because it resembles sails on a massive ship – but a shorter time to descend.

On May 2, the experienced trio will travel to Ottawa, Canada, then Montreal and Clyde River – a tiny outpost in the Nunavut Territories – before being taken as near as possible to the bottom of Sail peaks by Inuit skidoo.

They then will have to cope with temperatures of -20°C, roaming polar bears and icebergs, while walking across frozen fjords and sea ice.

During their ascent, the three will be “living” on a vertical wall for nearly three weeks, and sleeping in 6ft x 4ft “portaledges” secured to, or hanging from, the cliff.

It’s an exciting but dangerous prospect, which has to be completed before June when the ice melts.

Stuart said: “Mike has been to the area about 10 years ago.

“It’s one of the world’s biggest climbs, and one of the most photogenic climbs, with vertical walls of granite rising up from frozen fjords.

“There’s clean air and the photographs are amazing.

“Going on an expedition is all about finding the right people. I’ve been with Mike on seven expeditions – to Patagonia, Alaska and a lot to the Alps.

“It’s going to be pretty cool going on the skidoo but it will take two days to drag our equipment up a glacier.”

Stuart admits the climb was risky: “It will mean climbing and moving camp often – and moving upwards,” he added.

He said: “Logistically, it’s a huge concept. Everything has to be hung and not dropped.

“Any dropped kit like gloves, sleeping bags, stoves or boots could mean frost bite. There is no rescue other than the Inuit and no helicopters.

“All water has to be collected from snow found on the route. All food, sun cream, fruit, tins of food are always frozen solid and need thawing before use.

“Going to the toilet is quite a manoeuvre!”